Michael Schuster | Plump and black-fruit mulberry-rich to smell; a full-bodied, but very elegant balance, with noticeably fresh acidity and very fine-grained tannin; rich, dense, vivid wine, its generosity well-defined by its freshness, both plush and close-grained in texture, it’s ripe black fruit mineral-marked, and very aromatic to finish. A beautifully poised wine, of great complexity, continuing the recent move to a slightly richer, denser style, and this has a lovely sense of completeness from start to finish. Another 2020 that is classic in the best sense(s). 2032–50+.