Neil Beckett: Managing director Bernard Hervé has been pressing for the separate bottling of the wine from Clos de Bèze vines that belonged to Auguste Rodin’s doctor (a Faiveley), and this first release is a ringing vindication. Medium ruby. Greater clarity and intensity of cherry fruit on the nose, and even greater elegance, finesse, freshness, and vigor on the palate than the regular release. The formal perfection of the great sculptor’s smoothest marble: a liquid masterpiece. Bee’s-knees Bèze. 19