Jesús Barquín: Dark and concentrated. Serious, earthy, mushroomy, black licorice. Aromas are echoed by the palate with a reasonably balanced structure. The finish disappoints a little—slightly short with notes of ash. 15

Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Dried and fresh cherry-berry fruit on nose. Rich and generous on palate, with alluring sweetness on finish balanced by fresh acidity and just a touch of bitterness. Relatively low in alcohol, it is nicely balanced, drinking now for several years. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Very deep, saturated black-red. Warm, generous, and well-rounded aromatic profile, but rather soupy and featureless. On the palate, it is much as the aromas suggested; plenty of black plum, as well as cherry, and an exuberant, hail-fellow-well-met style that is satisfying rather than sublime. Still a lovely drink, note. 14