Jesús Barquín: Spicy, lightly toasty, serious, with a green hint. Only mildly sweet; long but (personally) penalized for its sweetness. 14

Nicolas Belfrage: [Declared an interest; asked not to score.]

Andrew Jefford: Saturatedly dense black-red. Earthy, full, a little glum, with a smell like warm Bakelite rather than the refined fruitiness one hopes for. Hints of resin and kerosene, too. Nonetheless, this is a very generous wine on the palate, with lots of depth and fullness, texture and depth. As with a number of the wines in today’s tasting, I sense that decanting this wine would pay dividends, and the palate shows that this is a very serious contender with fine bitter-cherry depths. With more aromatic precision and freshness, this would merit a top score. 16