Jesús Barquín: Concentrated, modern, with toasty notes and cherry cola, and a hint of bell pepper all the more obvious to the palate. Excessive and perhaps too international in profile. 13

Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep, with ruby reflections. Used wood and dried fruit on nose. Traditional style, a little high in VA, but makes up in character what it lacks in finesse. Slightly sour, as well as bitter finish, but enough sweetness to hold it together. Interested to see in three years. 14

Andrew Jefford: Deep, dense black-red. Attractive cherry-plum fruits, but a floral quality, too, almost as if the wine has had a little Viognier stirred into it. Some woodiness, which is a little less attractive. On the palate, smooth and round, but it lacks the concentration, detail, and precision, as well as the extractive force, of the best. 12