Jesús Barquín: Chestnut. Very serious nose, with a note of burned sugar, cathedral aromas, promising very old age, confirmed by the palate. (The palate also confirms a gentle sweetish note that may help swallow the mouthful but robs character ultimately.) Lots of dry extract in this very old Amontillado, but I’d prefer a totally dry version of it. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep chestnut-leaf brown in color, with red glints. Deeper in color than the classic expectation of Amontillado. Ripe, sweet, almost chocolaty scents and a waxy, furniture-polish note, too. Lots of casky finesse. Very attractive, if a little on the portly side. On the palate, all is explained: age. The palate is pure Amontillado finesse in its sheerness and its acidic poise, with its dry-fruit-skin austerities and finishing umami hint of tuna-flake richness—but the concentration of the wine suggests age, and that throws an additional drape or two of time weight and casky intensity over the flavors (and accounts for the color). There is an autumn-leaf note in the after-after-flavors, too. A fine wine, for sipping and discussion. At 22%, it’s one of the strongest wines in the tasting, yet that alcoholic power is in no way obtrusive or disconcerting. 17.5

Richard Mayson: Deep amber, verging on mahogany; rich, round, and heady, some concentrated dried figs and prunes here on the nose; round and welcoming initially, yet powerful; builds layer upon layer in the mouth, leading to a rich, intense finish. Rich, full of depth yet totally without sweetness. Combines power and finesse. 18