Jesús Barquín: Light chestnut. The spirity nose offers notes of egg yolk, wild herbs, expressive and clean. Very good mouthfeel, intense and expressive, balanced, with a delicious toastiness. Biological echoes ring through its sharp structure more than its aromas or flavors. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale orange-walnut in color. Sweetly apricotty, with just a little cinnamon and clove from somewhere or another. On the palate, this is very intense, very pure, very true to the style ideal. It’s a little short and simple, almost tart, but the intensity of that gathered, acidic-aldehydic flavor is such that you don’t really notice. Almost flinty on the palate; almost the mad axe-man of the tasting; not a trace of the aromatic sweetness remains on the palate. Try serving it with muscular, lithe shellfish, the sort that curl their thick lips at you as they sit waiting on the ice. 15

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber, with olive green; lovely savory-toasty aromas, mixed roasted nuts; rich and savory, a seamless combination of flavors all the way through to the finish, long and fine, with great elegance, poise, and persistence. Very fine. 18.5