Jesús Barquín: Deep gold to pale amber. Lovely intense golden (close on amber) color that suggests real purity, genuine right-from-the-butt wine. The expressive nose fulfills this promise, a very old Fino or Manzanilla being promoted to Amontillado heaven, thanks to prolonged oxidative aging. Excellent. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Light gold, like a deep, old Fino. Fresh, yeasty-bready, and wild-mushroomy: very attractive, very gastronomic, though once again it seems more like the conclusion of the Fino register than the “Amontillado” of English vicarage legend. There’s a blossomy fruit sweetness to this, too, which is very attractive. On the palate, it is light, intense, graceful, less incisive and biting (and acidic) than some; it has great purity and length. You’d want it chilled, I’m thinking. Pure and poised—an ideal soprano Amontillado, if that’s your style. 16

Richard Mayson: Pale amber, with a golden glint; still retaining some bready Fino character on the nose, wholemeal, fine, delicate, and aromatic; similarly dry and delicate on the palate, slim and savory, with great length and finesse. Fino-Amontillado in style and a lovely wine if you like this category (which I do!). 17