Jesús Barquín: Light chestnut. Intense nose of cathedral carpentry, toasty notes, caramel—clean and pleasant. Similar mouthfeel, elegant and well structured. A very old Amontillado, where biological aging is merely a background element. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: A light walnut in color, with red-orange glints. Rather fiercely casky, almost up at Madeira-like levels: It’s a little hard to sniff beyond this. But very pure withal; no off-notes. On the palate, the wine is rousing, searching, and saline, with powerful fine-bladed acidity. It’s very pure and very long but lacks a little resource once that blade has sliced its way down the tongue and done its work. There’s something drily raisiny as it subsides. A challenging, invigorating Amontillado, best served chilled. 15

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber, with a green tinge to rim; lovely focused pungent aromas, high-toned withatouch of rancio lifting the wine from the glass; similarly focused on the palate; lithe with a certain delicacy and a rapier-like finish, straight and to the point. Lovely wine, with poise and integrity. 18.5