Jesús Barquín: Light chestnut. Expressive and seductive nose, very Jerezano in origin, with impressive biological character and evident oxidation. The palate, too, has balance and finesse, but it is not among the most distinguished wines in this tasting. Good finish, long and refreshing. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Light, clear walnut. Clean, fresh, and refined, with a hint of musk rose, strangely enough, behind the usual dried fruit skins and basmati/umami. On the palate, this is poised, fresh, pristine, correct, and satisfying, with a saline edge. Excellent concentration, and a wine to keep standards up and classicists happy. 16

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber, with a green tinge; soft, mellow, savory-nutty aromas, nuts mixed with a few raisins; very gentle initially, with a fine, focused Amontillado tang building toward the finish. Fine, focused, and very refined. 17.5