Jesús Barquín: Light chestnut. Good biological heritage in the nose—you’d think this was a Palo Cortado ringer. The palate displays with even greater clarity the notes of orange peel, together with a slight sweetness that detracts a little in my opinion. In any case, the sleek, sharp structure denotes good biological origin. Long, with evident age and dry extract in the finish. 17

Andrew Jefford: Clear deep walnut, with russet-red glints. Sweet raisins, dried peach, and a big heave from the old cask: friendly, frank, and attractive. On the palate, this is weighty, big, full, exuberant, with a strong showing from the wood. Good wine, though for me it is a little bit obvious and weighty up against the most nuanced of its peers. Let’s give it its due, though; there is plenty of weight and depth here, and it’s still drumming the table 30 seconds after you have swallowed. 14

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep amber, with an olive-green glint; rich and demure after some of these wines, with a smooth savory, slightly meaty character; similarly on the palate, rich initially, with powerful savory dry tang building in the mouth and on to the finish. Powerful and multidimensional. Impressive; a bodybuilder! 17.5