Jesús Barquín: Chestnut. The color is deeper than the intermediate age advertised by the nose, but the palate leaves behind dry extract and good evidence of its age. Balanced emphasis on biological aging, long, typical Jerezano profile. It is missing a little roundness and depth to rank among the best in this tasting. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep walnut, with russet glints. The aromatic components have been polished to a high sheen and are round-contoured and seamless, with raisiny notes almost occluding the aldehyde tang. One might suspect a little sweetening wine. But no: On the palate this is dry, long, grave, sober, considered, and harmonious. The darkness in color is almost mirrored by a darkness of flavor; something akin to burned raisin is beckoning from the gloom; old staves are an element, too; and there is the basmati-rice flavor you also find in dry Oloroso Sherry. Grand stuff, yet very easy to sip, thanks to that harmony and seamlessness. 16

Richard Mayson: Deep amber, with a green tint; very soft, round on the nose, without much punch or pungency, slightly raisiny in character; similarly soft and round on the palate; dry yet full and slightly coarse on the finish. 15