Jesús Barquín: Light chestnut. The nose is expressive and complex, though not totally seamless; candied fruit, caramelized sugar, spice. The palate is a tad hot, but long and intense. 16

Andrew Jefford: Very pale walnut in color. Quite a funky, almost meaty nose over a ground base of aldehyde and raisin. Smooth-contoured and a little soupy in style. On the palate, the wine is vivid, mouth-filling, sustained, smooth-textured, of medium depth and intensity, with a very clean finish: raisins again, but dry, pristine, wholly uncloying. Good but not great. 13.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep amber, with an olive-green glint; full, round, not as lifted or pungent as some; walnuts and hay. Soft, rich initially, with a powerful dry tang building in the mouth and on the finish. Multidimensional and very fine. 17.5