Jesús Barquín: Light chestnut. Very biologically dominated all through, perhaps with the kind of oxidative aging that emphasizes rancio character over the fine carpentry and caramel. The finish is a tad too gentle, against my personal taste. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Mid-depth of walnut, with red glints. Lots of casky grunt on the nose, shading off toward the leathery end of things. Decent, shapely, round; moderate concentration; a workmanlike interpretation of the style, but no great finesse or sublimity. 13

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep amber, with an olive-green rim; rather cooked, baked, and maderized on the nose, almost burned; rich, full, with a hint of raisiny sweetness initially; coarse on the finish and doesn’t hang together well. Obvious age but lacking in finesse. 12.5