Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Beautifully sweet, floral-fragrant, toasty nose, with gunpowder complexity. Tight, linear, compact, highly energetic palate. Long, racy, and zesty with lemony acidity. Not yet peaking. Delicious and full of life. 19

Simon Field: Quince and hints of pink grapefruit and late-season apples; the mouth is full-bodied, from the muscular end of the Chardonnay spectrum, with white chocolate and hints of damask and pepper; still reticent but ready to open up with a little patience. 17

Tom Stevenson: Strong autolysis on the nose, with a fine intensity of fruit on the palate. Great with food now but will get better with age. This was a magnum; a bottle would score half a point less. 18