Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Fresh, youthful, white-flower nose, with lovely gunpowdery depth. Delicate, subdued, elegant aromas. Fine palate, on the reductive side. Still youthful and energetic, slightly tight. Fine, crisp acidity, purity and precision. A wine to hold on to still. 18.5

Simon Field: Attractive nose marries chalky notes with those of citric fruit; the palate is broad and finely sculptured, long and disciplined, a little foursquare sometimes. 15

Tom Stevenson: Well balanced, quietly complete, with no variety dominating. Classic, lean structure—but lean, not mean. Nicely slow evolution of yeast-complexed fruit. 18