Essi Avellan: Deep lemon color. Refined, delicately nuanced nose, withatoasty undertone. Fluffy, big mousse and loose structure. Mouth-filling and opulent but lacking firmness of structure. 16

Simon Field: Generous mousse and attractive English-orchard nose—an orchard of heterogenous persuasion, with plums and nectarine evidenced and perhaps a couple of fig trees. The palate is equally complex, still quite taut and closed, but with a great deal of potential. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Truly excellent, with some finesse, but outweighed by character and complexity. Keep it a couple of years in a perfect cellar, and this could well be a beauty. 18