Essi Avellan: Deep lemon. Youthful, floral, white-flower nose. Sharp, dry palate. Solid but nothing special. 15

Simon Field: Baked apple and sourdough inform the very traditional blended Champagne aromas; the palate has autolytic complexity and significant concentration; linear acidity completes the symphonic structure, which will need some time before it hits the home key. 17

Tom Stevenson: Lovely mousse, so soft and silky, with fine fruit and acidity. Nice length. Enjoyable now but really needs a couple of years additional aging. 17