Essi Avellan: Medium-deep salmon color, with a peachy tinge. Restrained, delicate, slightly creamy-lactic nose. Crisp, non-expressive lightweight palate, with good intensity. 15.5

Simon Field: Ethereal, balletic aromas, a soft, gently herbal mousse, then an elegant and finely defined palate, just a little coarse on the finish—perhaps a function of youth. Indeed, on a second tasting, the finish is finer and therefore more in keeping with the anticipated style. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Raspberry fields forever… Not quite right but works okay in the glass. 16.5