Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Rich, promisingly toasty nose, with dried-fruit depth, earthy minerality, and appley fruit. Fine depth of fruit on the palate, too, structured and intense. Long, with good concentration, some complexity, but little elegance. 17

Simon Field: Full of color, with barley sugar and honeysuckle on the nose, this wine does not flatter to deceive. The palate is indulgent, with ripe fruit and vanillin, certainly, but with the reassuring support of balanced acidity and the sheer gravitas of the finish underscoring the ensemble. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Again, a rather runaway mousse, with bubbles that are somewhat large. Needs time, which will bring improvements, but I cannot see an overabundance of potential at this stage. 14