Essi Avellan: Deep lemon-gold color. Full, toasty, with attractive baking-spice-and-apple character, with controlled oxidation. Full, slightly loose, winey palate, with a coarse mousse. Long and intense on the finish but lacking any added dimension. 15.5

Simon Field: A decidedly complex nose, despite the rather loose-knit mousse; figs and praline compete with agrumes and red apple, with a shadow of oxidation in the background. The mouth-feel is rather indulgent and a little loose-knit, however. If the wine’s day has passed, it has passed a little too soon, but many will disagree… 16

Tom Stevenson: The mousse needs time to tame, after which it should have the finesse it is currently lacking. 16