Essi Avellan: Deep lemon. Mild, restrained, lightly nutty, apple-and-cookie nose. Winey palate with calm mousse and medium length. Fairly straightforward but clean and balanced. 15.5

Simon Field: Orchard-fruit aromas, peach and hints of redcurrant; the palate combines natural ripeness with a relatively high dosage to good effect, the crisp acidity providing discreet architectural support. 15

Tom Stevenson: Clean, fresh, and complete, with a fine mousse of tiny bubbles leading to a gently crisp finish. 16.5