Essi Avellan: Deep lemon. Smooth toffee nose with pâtisserie and soapy whiffs. Winey, loose-structured, and highly lactic palate. Lacks elegance and liveliness. 13

Simon Field: Ripe, slightly syrupy nose, with interesting hints of fennel and spice. The palate is luxuriant—for my tastes a little lacking in structural grip—but certainly concentrated and long. 15

Tom Stevenson: Some butterscotch clearly evident on the nose, which is distracting, but not so dominant on the palate, which has an elegant ripeness of fruit underpinned by fine acid balance. 16.5