Stephen Brook: Light straw. Discreet peach-and-pineapple nose. Fresh, limpid, ripe, and silky, with charm and texture. There’s richness and weight, too, as well as spice and persistence. This is Viognier with real complexity and nuance. Delicious and long. 17.5

Alex Hunt: There are struck-flint sulfides vying with creamy oak for supremacy here, and the varietal fruit character has been rather sidelined. The palate is thick and butterscotchy, like the Chardonnays of days gone by. The caramel flavor is sort of an effective fruit substitute but is so much more fatiguing. This is overly unctuous, without revealing the typical apricot richness of Viognier. 13

Andrew Jefford: Full green-gold. Rather shy aromatically, but it does sketch out something vaguely Viognier-like: soft apricots and a little almondy richness. Full and satisfyingly developed on the palate: very tongue-coating, nutty and rich, with ample stone-fruit flesh, too. One of the rare wines in this tasting that is actually better on the palate than aromatically. Finely crafted and varietally true: layered and refined. There’s an intriguing white-chocolate note here and something that might just be minerality. The lowish acidity is perfect and is fruit-saturated. Very satisfying: bravo! I’m just looking for a little extra aromatic enchantment to take it to an outstanding score. 17