Stephen Brook: Light straw. Rich heady stone-fruit nose, with good weight of fruit and ample typicity. A weighty, full-bodied style, but it’s not heavy or clumsy; shows ripeness without sweetness, has a fine texture and enough acidity to give a fresh finish. This has swagger and personality, it’s balanced, and it has fairly good length. 17.5

Alex Hunt: Appealing if rather timid stone-fruit aromas. The palate has a very engaging texture and nice balance of acidity to weight, but the flavors have a distinct cardboardy component that robs the wine of lift. This already tastes tired. 12.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold. Slight burnt-match aromas; some white mushroom behind. Very overt and toothsome flavors, which hit the varietal button with some force. Nonetheless, this is a wine that also has that distinctively Virginian petiteness, evident even with this varietal, so it’s perfectly drinkable. I’m not quite sure I like the matchsticky overtones, but the sweet flesh is delicious though simple. Returning later, the wine has lost that possible reduced aromatic note and smells more freshly floral, so I lift the score by a merited point. 15