Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Odd nose: pear and mango. Plump but a bit sour. This has the weight and flesh of Viognier without the voluptuous fruit. Indeed, there’s some greenness on the finish. Hard to find much pleasure here. 12

Alex Hunt: Classic fresh, ripe Viognier aromas of apricot, apricot kernels, and flowers; the age of the wine does not show on the nose. The palate is sterner, more mineral, more obviously cool-climate than the nose suggests but nonetheless retains that seam of apricot flavor all the way through to the finish. This is pretty impressive. 15

Andrew Jefford: Full gold. This wine has a much better aromatic profile than our first pair from Ontario. This is genuinely varietal, meaning beguilingly floral (lily here), with a little attractive ginger spice. On the palate, though, it is disconcertingly hollow and slightly metallic, without any plumpness of stone-fruit or white-almond richness. That floral character does come through on the palate, though. Sadly, I still can’t acclaim it a successful Viognier, but it is at least distinctively varietal 13