Stephen Brook: Lemony straw. Unappealing nose, rancid butter, slightly decaying tropical fruit. Broad and certainly exotic, but this is close to blowsy—an off-dry style with quite high alcohol and some coarseness. Showing its age, and fairly short. 11

Alex Hunt: This wine has a very sultry, come-hither apricot-kernel nose. The palate is harder-edged than expected, as if afraid of its own potential voluptuousness. Acid seems disjointed, and the finish is abrupt. This feels tantalizingly close, given the aromatics. 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Full gold. Rather neutral, baby-talc-like aromas. Acid-dominated palate, lacking richness and aromatic resonance. Stylistically, this needs recalibration against the varietal benchmarks. 11