Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, with some turn on rim. Nose ripe with beginnings of evolution. Surprisingly round, creamy palate, with good acidity and plentiful but fully ripe tannins. Quite a classy, traditional-style tipple, drinking now but with years to go. 16.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet, with tawny highlights. Seductive, persistent, clean, yet a touch closed nose, with classic small red fruits and stone-like minerality. Medium-body palate, with clean, juicy fruit and long, lively finish with refined tannic grip. Great wine and a good compromise between the modern and more traditional style. 17.5

Stephen Brook: Deep to very deep red. Discreet smoky nose, sweet cherries and licorice. Rich, sleek, silky, and concentrated but has a welcome lightness of touch. The tannins are supple and fine-grained, and there’s enough acidity to give plenty of freshness. Elegant and graceful, without excessive weight or power. 17.5