Nicolas Belfrage: Very deep, virtually opaque. Oaky nose. Deep-flavored, hyper-concentrated wine of somewhat low acidity and abundant ripe tannins. 15.5

Bruno Besa: Black core to thin garnet, tawny rim. Mature, open black-and-red-fruit nose, with pine resin, raw meat, and hints of cloves. Medium to full body, touch jammy on the palate, yet fairly long. 15.5

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Rich, opulent black-cherry nose; doesn’t shout Sangiovese. Medium-bodied, with more zest but less concentration than the nose suggests, though there is an underlying sweetness of fruit. The tannins are ripe and textured, with ample fresh acidity to cut that ripeness and give some finesse. 17