Nicolas Belfrage: Again, a lightish color with a bit of turn, though duller than previous. Sweet, somewhat evolved fruit on nose. Very Sangiovese, with ripe cherry fruit, bright acidity, and a middling tannic hit at back. Has elegance of Sangiovese-based wine, though slightly lacking in concentration. Good drink, though. 15.5

Bruno Besa: Pale garnet, tawny to orange rim. Open, mature, decadent nose, with prunes and small red fruits; medium body; touch green and surprisingly dried out fruit, considering the vintage. 14

Stephen Brook: Deep red. Delicate, smoky, black-fruit nose. Medium-bodied, juicy, and succulent, with sleek tannins and enough lift to give some charm. No heavyweight, but poised and stylish, with a long fresh finish. 16.5