Nicolas Belfrage: Very deep, virtually opaque. Clean herbal-fresh fruit nose. Quite packed yet not “hot.” There is quite a mix of flavors, teetering on the overwhelming but not quite. 16

Bruno Besa: Black core to thin garnet rim. A bit closed nose, with morello cherries and hints of mint. Full body, with mature black fruit and tight, fairly long finish. A good wine not showing at its best today. 15

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Opulent, torrefied black-cherry nose. Rich and suave, seamless and luxurious, but with only moderate acidity and lift. Not overly tannic, yet it seems quite worked and effortful, with little varietal typicity. The finish is rather flat and lusterless. Medium length. 14.5