Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep with some turn. Some berry, some wood on nose. A hefty wine, concentrated and tannic, with firm acidity and good type but needing time to gain charm. Drink from three years. 14

Bruno Besa: Deep ruby to garnet. Open and mature, touch oxidized, with small red fruits, good minerality, and hints of cedarwood. Medium- to full-bodied; a touch aggressive, since it lacks fruit to balance. 14.5

Stephen Brook: Deep red. Slightly baked nose, with a light gaminess that may derive from a dollop of Syrah in the mix. Medium-bodied, lighter than the nose suggests, with a sleek silky texture balanced by ripe tannins. The acidity seems quite gawky now, and the wine overall is far from harmonious right now. Very polished, with a long, spicy finish, and I’ll give it the benefit of the few doubts I have. 17