Nicolas Belfrage: Quite deep but not opaque with beginnings of turn on rim. Berry nose, not strong. Gutsy fruit on palate, stony/earthy, with a bitter twist vying with ripe fruit and a touch of dryness on finish. Well made, if more muscular than elegant. 14

Bruno Besa: Lively garnet core to pink rim. Open, mature, spicy nose, with small red fruits, tobacco, and cloves. Medium body, with fairly green tannins and simple fruit. 14

Stephen Brook: Deep to very deep red. Rich blackberry nose but hardly shouts Sangiovese. Medium-bodied, supple, quite concentrated, but rather one-dimensional. It’s certainly ripe but has sufficient acidity to balance it, and the tannins are ripe, too. Relatively discreet in style but none the worse for that, and it has some finesse. Good length and a robust finish, 16