Jesús Barquín: Slightly less opaque than the rest. The nose is also somewhat better settled and evolving already toward floral notes, well-defined fruit, and a pleasant animal and leather accent. Polished and long palate, very pleasant and already drinkable. This definitely plays in another maturity league due to its older age versus the almost insulting youth of the rest. In this case, of course, there is no need to venture risky predictions in the long run. Perfectly enjoyable right now. Delicious. 17.5

Alex Hunt: Positive development in bottle, bringing out mineral-gravelly notes that recall Bordeaux, alongside the richer, riper fruit of mature Port. Still full-bodied, as well as full of vigor, this is far from fully evolved. Plenty of grip, but evenly matched to the concentration of fruit. Lots going on in the mouth. Very impressive wine. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep and with some lingering opacity, even as its 13th birthday approaches. Aromatically, it’s a little soupy and rustic by the standards of current best practice. The depth of flavor in the smooth, open palate is testament to the region’s dazzling quality potential, but this is probably not the wine to convert the unconverted. 12