Jesús Barquín: Intense fruit-driven nose, marked by ripe black fruit. Dry palate, with nicely balancing tannin, acidity, and alcohol. Long, intense, promising. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Developed, soupy, molasses-rich, alcoholic nose. A sharp-brown, sour-oxidized hit of gravy on the palate. No fruit; very sweet-and-sour. 12

Andrew Jefford: Saturated dark black-red. Warm, lots of pounded grape and grape-skin scents, with a complexity that almost seems to come out of the chaos of the marc. On the palate, this is weighty, thick-textured, low acid, long, and lingering—another crocodile of a wine that will please those who love crocodiles immensely. (I include myself.) Lovely extracts and an almost chocolaty force to them. Grandiose, extravagant, uncompromising, rule-breaking stuff. 17.5