Jesús Barquín: Bovril nose of great concentration, floral hints, and a touch of leather. The palate confirms the impression of the nose, but there is an excess of aggressive tannin that detracts. 14

Alex Hunt: Rich, developing aromas of blackberry jam and smoke. Chewy and dry but in an odd conundrum of balance: More sweet fruit would make it overwhelming, yet it seems undernourished, almost stringy, as it is. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Saturated deep black-red in color. Sweet, warm penetrating and invasive aromas of a stony land and a warm season. We’re a long way from Wehlen! It’s like leaving Stockholm on a chilly July day and walking out of the airplane door at your holiday destination. Takes stony out until it is almost stinky. And very dry, in truth, but amply expressive of that dryness. On the palate, this wine is a kind of cocktail of minerals and old roots. Open, expansive, expressive, loose-sinewed—and above all extravagantly extractive (but soft, not bitter, tight or harsh) and languidly mineral. Lovely wine that all sorts of purists would object to and that makes you clamber over its own nose. On the palate, it’s half way to a vin doux naturel—and it’s taken itself there on its own. Uncompromisingly itself. 16.5