Jesús Barquín: Concentrated but distinguished nose; intense, good fruit load, confirmed in the palate by a well-balanced structure 16.5

Alex Hunt: Full-on, almost sickly richness on the nose: a heady blend of mocha, crème de mûre, and hoi sin sauce. The palate is actually balanced but so densely packed that the vigor present on entry struggles to fight its way through to the finish, which ends up tired and raisined. 14

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Meaty, warm, slabby, confined, mineralogically intense, but you feel it might be better with a decant. Lush, full, a little soupy, even a little sweet. There’s not a lot of nerve or sinew here; a rather corpulent wine, which needs winching out of the bottle. The soft tannins stand in for the near-absent acidity. Actually, I quite like corpulent wines—wines like Lucien Freud’s benefits supervisor—and I would enjoy sidling up to them drinking this, but it won’t satisfy the new zealots. 14