Jesús Barquín: Aromas of sarsaparilla, lemon zest, cinnamon, herbs. Similar palate, slightly less focused, but with good balance overall. Still tough tannins, but promising integration with bottle age. 15.5

Alex Hunt: Raisined aroma; overripe bananas, bruised apples—all a bit too brown. Soupy palate, too; sensitively extracted but syrupy in texture and with no real defined flavor. 13

Andrew Jefford: Saturated dense black-red. Warm, sweet, almost honeyed fruits: the lure of the beehive in the forest clearing. Sweet enchantment, and nodding pollen-heavy flowers. On the palate, this is generous, ample wine, full of the same buzzy fruit generosity the nose suggested, but there’s no vulgarity either: just delicious, shapely, easy-access Douro. It’s so easy, indeed, that it’s easy to underestimate; drinkability of this order, combined with the intrinsic complexity of the place, should not go unrewarded, and I feel it certainly merits a “very good” score. 16