Jesús Barquín: Slightly shy nose that gradually opens to reveal jammy notes of guava confiture. The palate is better, balanced by fresh acidity. The finish is tannic, with good acidity, and a tad closed. 15

Alex Hunt: Although the color is a healthy ruby, the nose suggests far too much oxidative development—so presumably on the vine. Raisined flavors, stodgy tannin, lack of freshness. I’m really struggling to find anything to like here. 11.5

Andrew Jefford: Saturated dense black-red. Another noseful of super-ripe fruit: black cherries that have sat in the bowl in the sunshine until they dimple and seep. A touch of VA, too? Anyway, a showy but slightly excessive aromatic profile. Meaty, earthy, grippy, generous, low-acid, high-texture palate, with extravagant minerality and extract, with those poor cherries rather swept under the extractive tsunami. There is also a faintly moldy note in the end palate. Nonetheless, I like the ensemble as a drinker; these are the wines that make you think of mountains and stones and the metamorphoses that went on 200 million years ago (or whatever) as you drink, and this is provocative and precious. But by any objective standard of balance, this is out on the wing. I score for my enthusiasm rather than my simultaneous misgivings. 16.5