Essi Avellan | Lemon yellow. TCA. No second bottle. | NS

Simon Field | Gunflint, reduction, and the faintest whiff of TCA, accentuated on the palate. No matter how much one wills this wine on, its inherent virtues not far from the surface, it is impossible accurately to judge thus. And only one bottle, or magnum in this case, its inherent generosity unmined on this occasion. | NS

Anthony Rose | A light gold in color. This is almost white Burgundy-like in aroma, showing an element of matchsticky solids and yeastiness, like lees- stirred Chardonnay, if also slight TCA notes, sadly. It’s followed on the palate, when you taste it, by an immediacy of lively textured bubbles, exploding into a fine, chalky/fruity character that’s underpinned by a refreshing linear acidity and a salty, mineral note, showing little if any residual sugar, on a zesty, bone-dry finish. A clean bottle would, I suspect, score 95+. | NS