Andrew Jefford | Fresh, refined, with admirable fruit purity: sun-warmed blackcurrant fruits. Lifted and pure, wholly satisfying. Warm-stoned, too, and clean earth. Lighter fleshed than many, yet concentrated and fine-drawn, sinewy, resolute. Not a long-term bet (little apparent tannin, texture, or width of fruit), yet its concentration will keep it going, and the fine vineyards leave a grain and weave in the fruit. | 89

Michael Schuster | Red- and black-fruit ripe, oak cedary, and lightly gravelly nose; medium-full, finely tannic, taut from its acidity. A ripe red fruit-flavored, dry, slightly chewy wine, where, for the moment, the year’s acidity feels to the fore. This is likely to need much more time than usual, and I’m not really sure quite how it will reward the wait. The finesse is clear, the flesh less so. 2027–37+. | 88