Neil Beckett | Palest lemon-gold, even a slight greenish hue (rare this year). A very light exotic touch to the aroma, as for the same producer's Montmains, with faint acacia and tangerine, so not the most incisive, but engaging rather than worrying (no botrytis). Round and supple on entry, fleshy, but lent definition and scintillation by a light agrumes pithiness, gentle phenolic grip, and acidity that rallies on the impressively long finish. | 92