Neil Beckett | Lustrous mid-gold, the deepest in its flight. Honeyed, opulent, rich, ripe, and seductive to smell, the oak well-balanced and well-integrated, the fruit very intense and pure. Dense, richly layered, and quite grippy, but the animating acidity and pleasingly bitter phenolic twist give it enough energy, despite the scale, to reach take-off, Jumbo Jet-like, defying gravity and reaching a high cruising altitude. Not the greatest length in terms of its finish or its future, perhaps, but this should be enormously pleasurable over the short and medium term. | 95