Neil Beckett | Brilliant lemon-gold. Still a little difficult to read on the nose, with glacé-ripe, lees-rich fruit under a light reductive blanket for now. The palate is more revealing—and more thrilling: very dense and opulent, with great depth of fruit but appetizing acidity underneath; good balance and harmony, for all its scale, and the concentration is clear from the spectacular length. Magnificent, if not, perhaps, for the very long term. | 95