Neil Beckett | A natural luster to the medium-deep ruby. A characteristically ethereal, enigmatic, will- o'-the-wisp scent; finely nuanced, fully ripe red and black fruit, lightly floral on top. A sublime texture of real Musigny refinement—the floating silk scarf—but not at all light (one of the many paradoxes of great wine), as there is structure and substance as well; flying-buttress tannins, elegant and supportive and making possible the airy lightness and height of the rest while remaining almost out of sight. Chartres rose-window intricacy, mystery, symmetry, and depth. | 97