Simon Field | Sturdy muscular appearance; not much concession to time. An anonymous and possibly slightly rustic aromatic: hints of Bovril, eucalypt, and woodsmoke; iodine maybe, too. The palate is stretched and sinewy—Giacometti structure when one may have expected something a little rounder, plumper, more generous. Very dry tannins grip like a vise at the end, and one is keen to make one’s excuses and leave. | 86

Andrew Jefford | Dark black-red, though no longer quite opaque; still some purple glints. Some reduction here, but fresh, curranty, lifted fruits beneath, too, and some classy Cologne spices. Very (oddly) high acidity here, and that acidity almost has a lemon-juice character rather than being bonded to the red-fruits—it’s really too much. From where? Well, it could be high-altitude. Everything else struggles to keep up, though it’s a serious, structured wine for all that. Piercing red. | 87

Anthony Rose | Already quite evolved in color, showing some signs of browning, this is showing a hint of the farmyard in its odors, and the fruit, which has an odd sour note to it, is either heftily extracted or showing that slight bitter dryness that the animal fat can bring. | 84