Simon Field | Resonant, purple, raven wings beating at the core; a narrow meniscus. Oxtail, lavender, blueberry, and undergrowth, a hint of charcuterie, the meat cured over a generous period. There is a kick of alcohol at the back, interfering briefly with laudatory appreciation, but thereafter the weight of fruit, the tannic balance, and the finely unfurling backdrop are all composed with skill as the wine enters its second age. | 90

Andrew Jefford | Saturated, dense, opaque black-red here. The nose is still rather raw and brut, even after five years, with glowering inky fruit in squared-up style. It might improve with lots of air (or more time in bottle), but it doesn’t seduce as poured, though there are no off-notes at all, happily. That’s really what you find on the palate, too. It deserves its 90 for depth of fruit and force of personality, but I feel softer handling would have inched the score up a little further. | 90

Anthony Rose | Super-bright and vivid in color, barely showing a graying hair. This is aromatic, with a floral note and very ripe dark fruit supported by a powerful structure of chewy, dry tannins and a sting of hefty alcohol rendering the whole thing impressive, if slightly harder to love than the parts imply. But if big, rich, and chunky is your thing, then this could be the wine for you. | 90