Simon Field | Dense color (no surprise there) and a pleasing nose that marries dark fruit, iodine, and a whiff of graphite—goût de fusil, maybe. Appealing, for sure, hinting as it does at a development that is nascent and far from its apogee. The palate is a touch less reassuring, a slightly syrupy cassis compote in the ascendant, and questions left about the safety or even wisdom of the onward journey. The finish is abrupt—might there be a touch of Brett?—but this tank certainly does not lack for fuel. | 88

Andrew Jefford | Dark, saturated black-red. Vegetal seaweed notes on the nose, oddly enough, and some herbaceous character. Mushrooms, too. Not wholly happy aromatically, though there is lots to look at. Rather stew-like and tough on the palate, alas. Not a great success as a mature wine. | 80

Anthony Rose | Evolving in both color and aroma, this is showing some earthy, slightly funky, almost beetroot-like notes in its aromatic profile, and it’s drinking well now. What must once have been overt tannins are now nicely rounded out by age and older oak. A thoroughly attractive drink, combining dark fruit and savory elements in a seamlessly moreish, food-friendly whole. | 92