Andrew Jefford | Bright steel-gold, and the first wine since the first flight with pearls of gas on the glass. Warm, sweet, doughy, with crème anglaise sweetness: very soft, becoming, and attractive. Lots of felted intricacy here: flowers, sweet fruits, clean washing, and fresh cream. On the palate, this is a wine of wonderful zest and mineral-salty excitement: stunning precision and definition, and impressively controlled richness, too, and the peach just peeps out from behind the apple, and the apricot waves over the top of the pear. Fresh yet rich, weighty yet light as only Germany can be. (Or not!) Another absolute stunner, anyway, and hats off to whoever is behind it. | 96

Stephan Reinhardt | Very bright in color, this Riesling opens clear, pure, and fresh on the still young, thus very aromatic, nose that still throws primary fruit aromas out of the glass. Tight and grippy on the palate, this is a well-made, salty, and slightly phenolic Riesling, with a ripe fruit and some oaky notes. I have a sense that the producer could trust even more fully in the greatness of the terroir here, which might make the wine even more fascinating. But all the same, this is a very good wine. 2021–38. | 92

Anthony Rose | A very pale lemon in color, this smells fresh and florally fragrant, there’s a refreshing prickle on the tongue helping to maintain the freshness behind a wine of juicy, rich, layered texture, underpinned by a gentle mineral-salts streak and finishing lively and tangily dry on the tongue in an elegant flourish. | 93