Andrew Jefford | This Riesling is very pale (steel green-white) and very spritzig—or rather perlant; the glass sides are sown with a mass of tiny bubbles, but there is no stream of gas in release. Free sulfur and a little reduction on the nose suggest classic German winemaking, as does the doughy, tender, dewy style of orchard fruits the wine evokes. I think the aromas will be prettier with a little air, so I will go back in five minutes. But in fact it is broadly the same. This is a dry, keen, quicksilver wine whose pleasure lies in acidity and the fruit that that acidity carries. It is low in alcohol. The acidity is ripe and tender, and there is apple, quince, and pear behind—and some “other” flavors in the bitter range, which I think would often be referred to as mineral and may have some relation to soil type. It’s rather a grown-up wine and in some ways an acquired taste (all that acidity with no counterbalancing sweetness would seem tart to some), but I am enjoying it a lot, and there is warmth, expression, and expansiveness on the tongue after it is swallowed. Actually, that is when you see the wine’s quality. It needs time and attention and rewards both. | 92

Stephan Reinhardt | This Riesling exhibits a bright, green-yellow color, indicating a reductive style. In fact, the nose is very precise, fresh, and focused on the intense, ripe, and concentrated fruit, spiced with slate splitters and flinty notes. Crystalline and elegant on the palate, this is a linear, round, and elegant, very salty and stimulating Riesling, still reduced and closed, yet enormously long and salty. It needs years to unfold its huge talents. The finish is spectacularly long, but this is not great fun to drink at this early stage. 2026–50. | 93+

Anthony Rose | Pale limey green. Fresh and light in aroma, showing floral and citrus tones. There’s a fine, fresh prickle on the tongue, and the ripe, citrusy fruit is mouthwateringly refreshing and dry, the streak of lightly salty acidity giving the wine a length and breadth that’s impressive. | 93